kc9vivoz1性价比怎么样样?

Amateur Radio Emergency Services / Radio Amateur Civil Emergency Service
I just got my H1N1 vaccination yesterday and they gave me an info sheet, thought you might find it interesting enough to pass around. I got the shot, but this sheet is for the nasal spray. They gave me the wrong sheet, but still should be some use. Sorry for the grammar issues, I type it like I see it. Thank you CDC for proof-reading your documents haha…
H1N1 Vaccine: What you need to know.
1) What is
Influenza?
influenza (sometimes called Swing Flu) is caused by a new strain of influence virus. it has spread to many countries.
Like other flue viruses,
spreads from person to person through coughing, sneezing, and sometimes through touching objects contaminated with the virus.
can include:
* Sore throat
* Muscle aches
* Coughing
* Sneezing
Some people can also have diarrhea and vomiting.
Most people feel better within a week. but some people get pneumonia or other serious illnesses. Some people have to be hospitalized and some die.
different from regular (seasonal) flu?
Seasonal flu viruses change from year to year, but they are closely related to each other.
People who have had flu infections in the past usually have some immunity to seasonal flu viruses (their bodies have built up some ability to fight off the viruses).
flu virus is a new strain. It is very different from the seasonal flu viruses.
Most people have little or no immunity to
flu (their bodies are not prepared to fight off the virus).
influenza vaccine
Vaccines are available to protect against
influenza.
* These vaccines are made just like seasonal flue vaccines.
* They are expected to be as safe and effective as seasonal flu vaccines.
* They will not prevent “influenza-like” illnesses caused by other viruses.
* They will not prevent seasonal flu. */You should also get seasonal
flu vaccine, if you want protection from seasonal flu./*
Live, attenuated intranasal vaccines (or LAIV) is sprayed into the nose. This sheet describes the live, attenuated intranasal vaccine.
An inactivated vaccine is also available, which is given as a shot. It is described in a separate sheet.
LAIV does not contain thimerosal or other preservatives. it is licensed for people from 2 through 49 years of age.
The vaccine virus is attenuated 9weakened) so it will not cause illness.
4) Who should get
influenza vaccine and when?
LAIV is approved for people from 2 through 49 years of age who are not pregnant and do not have certain health conditions (see number 66 below). Groups recommended to receive
LAIV first are healthy people who:
* Are from 2 through 24 years of age.
* Are from 25 through 49 years of age and live with/care for infants younger than 6 months of age or are health care or emergency medical personnel.
As more vaccine becomes available, other healthy 25 through 49 year olds should also be vaccinated.
NOTE: While certain groups should not get LAIV – for example pregnant women, people with long-term health problems, and children from 6 months to 2 years of age – it is important that they be vaccinated. They should get the flu shot.
The federal government is providing this vaccine for receipt on a voluntary basis. however, state law or employers may require vaccination for certain persons.
Get vaccinated as soon as the vaccine is available. Children through 9 years of age should get two doses of vaccine, about a month apart. Older children and adults need only one dose.
5) Some people should not get the vaccine or should wait.
You should not get
LAIV if you have a severe (life threatening) allergy to eggs, or to any other substance in the vaccine. Tell the person giving you the vaccine of you have severe allergies.
LAIV should not be given to the following groups:
* Children younger than 2 and adults 50 years and older
* Pregnant women
* Anyone with a weakened immune system
* Anyone with a long-term health problem such as
** Heart disease
** Lung disease
** Kidney or liver disease
** Metabolic disease such as diabetes
** Anemia and other blood disorders
* Children younger than 5 years with asthma or one or more episodes of wheezing during the past year
* Anyone with certain muscle or nerve disorders (such as cerebral palsy) that can lead to breathing or swallowing problems
* Anyone in close contact with a person with a severely weakened immune system (requiring care in a protected environment, such as a bone marrow transplant unit)
* Children or adolescents on long-term aspirin treatment.
If you are moderately or severely ill, you might be advised to wait until you recover before getting the vaccine. If you have a mild cold or other illness, there is usually no need to wait.
Tell your doctor if you ever had:
* A life-threatening allergic reaction after a dose of seasonal flu vaccine
*Guillain-Barre syndrome 9a severe paralytic illness, also called GBS).
These may not be reasons to avoid the vaccine, but the medical staff can help you decide.
LAIV may be given at the same time as most other vaccines. Tell your doctor if you got any other vaccines within the past month or plan to get any within the next month.
LAIV and seasonal LAIV should not be given together.
6) What are the risks from
A vaccine, like any medicine, could cause a serious problem, such as a severe allergic reaction. But the risk of any vaccine causing serious harm, or death, is extremely small.
The risks from
LAIV are expected to be similar to those from seasonal LAIV:
Mild Problems:
*Some children and adolescents 2-17 years of age have reported mild reactions, including:
** Runny nose, nasal congestion, or cough
** Headache and muscle aches
** Abdominal pain or occasional vomiting or diarrhea
** Wheezing
* Some adults 18-49 years of age have reported:
** Runny nose or nasal congestion
** Cough, chills, tiredness/weakness
** Sore throat
** Headache
Severe problems:
* Life threatening allergic reactions to vaccines are very rare. if they do occur, it is usually within a few minutes to a few hours after the vaccination.
* In 1976,, an earlier type of inactivated swine flu vaccine as associated with cases of Guillain-Barre Syndromes (GBS). LAIV has not been linked to GBS.
7) What if there is a severe reaction?
What should I look for?
any unusual condition, such as a high fever or behavior changes. Signs of a severe allergic reaction can include difficulty breathing, hoarseness or wheezing, hives, paleness, weakness, a fast heart beat, or dizziness.
What should I do?
* Call a doctor, or get the person to a doctor right away.
* Tell the doctor what happened, the date and time it happened, and when the vaccination was given.
* Ask your provider to report the reaction by filing a Vaccine Adverse Event Reporting System (VAERS) form. Or you can file this report through the VAERS website at http://www.vaers.hhs.gov or
by calling 1-800-822-7967.
(the rest of the paper is legal mumble jumbo)
Long story short, the lightbar has been malfunctioning still. But here are some updates.
I’ve replaced all the strobes and yet the bar continues to act up. After some more work, then the serial communications failed to work altogether. I finally called the Wisconsin Whelen rep and picked his brain. Here is what we came up with:
My wiring was a joke, especially at the battery end. I had heavy gauge wire running to a small gauge wire with a dinky inline fuse that ended up melting. I replaced the line and put an inline Maxi-fuse.
After replacing the aluminum or steel wire, whatever it was, with copper, I apparently damaged the serial comm. cable that went to the lightbar which caused a complete failure of every serial device in the network. I replaced all my serial comm. lines with new ones from the Whelen rep and it works
Apparently my power supplies also were bad even though Whelen said they were good. I have a pair of used ones coming from Texas while the Whelen rep is sending mine in for repairs or replacement.
Apparently my wiring is still a joke. I have 2 lines of extension cords (one positive, one negative) with all 3 conductors twisted together to make up for my lack of 8 gauge wire. I personally don’t see the problem but apparently that could be my last failure point but so far the thing seems to be working. I’m just waiting for some power supplies to put in it. I picked up some heavy duty 8 gauge wiring ready to replace my extension cords if the issues persisting.
Believe it or not this thing will be alive once again. In hindsight, I could have picked up a different (not serial controlled) lightbar for $150. For all of the money I’ve spent fixing this lightbar, I could have picked up a brand new LED lightbar. What can I say, I’ve been spoiled with Whelen’s B-Link serial controlled network. I should be getting some power supplies this coming week…
UPDATE: 12/4/2009
Both power supplies came yesterday and were hooked up. It sure was cold haha. The power supplies were considerably older than the ones that I had in the lightbar that are currently being worked on, but they work. Last night and today the lightbar passes the MPC01 diagnostics.
It lives again! For all the money I spent on it, it should. I have a practically brand new lightbar. Though I’m still using my existing power wiring, I will consider redoing it once I get the appropriate wiring and a warm day.
Upcoming H1N1 vaccination clinics in Sauk County.
Mon, December 7th, 13:00 – 20:30: Wilderness Resort & Convention Center, Lake Delton
Wed, December 9, 13:00 – 20:30: Reedsburg High School
Fri, December 11, 13:00 – 20:30: Prairie du Sac Fire Department
Mon, December 14, 13:00 – 20:30: Spring Green Fire Department
Wed, December 16, 13:00 – 20:30: Boo U, West Baraboo
events have been canceled and may be re-scheduled for early next year.
A few days ago I received an email about Columbia County needing assistance with their H1N1 vaccination clinic at Portage High School. They only have 1,500 doses, so we all figured there would be a massive swarm of people.
The Layout
With the clinic being at the high school, there were 2 parking lots available to use. There were 2 ARES members stationed near the first parking lot for overflow parking, 2 members at the primary parking lot directing traffic into the lot and down rows with empty spaces. Myself and one other member were stationed at the front door, 1 member was at the exit to ensure nobody tried to sneak in, and 1 or 2 people were inside offering assistance.
Even an hour before the clinic opened, people started lining up. Within a half hour there were at least 200 people standing in line. We figured this is how it was going to be all day. There was no trouble with all of those people in line, some students and people needed to be escorted inside the building to the bathroom or the main office for school related stuff.
The Results
Within 10 minutes of the clinic opening, the line was processed in the building. Since the initial arrival of people, the amount of people showing up slowly trickled down from there. Maybe 1 or 2 people every 10 minutes for the next 4 hours. It was non stop excitement. Just kidding. It was considerably slower than expected, but at least we had the staff there just in case there was a massive flood. Even at 1700 hours the traffic never seemed to pick up.
Besides bringing my sexy self, I packed a few things with me:
My HT with earpiece (most people had speaker/mic’s)
Traffic directing flashlight
Extra batteries for the flashlight
Backup traffic directing LED glow stick
My reflective vest with name tag
Gloves (very handy!)
I didn’t bring a backup battery for my HT though I
did give it a top off charge the night before. I keyed up maybe 4 times at 2 watts (though low power, 0.5 watts, would have been more than enough).
From the Columbia County EC:
“Well we did it again folks! I received many thanks from EM Pat Beghin, County Health Officer Susan Lorenz and Portage Police Chief Ken Manthey. It is hard for anyone to predict how these types of things will go. Based on the original line of an estimated 300 people before the doors even opened I don’t think anyone expected it to be as low key as it was. Our previous contacts with Portage Daily Register reporter Lyn Jerde is helping out too!!
Rich Green KC9FNM”
Someone at work asked me why I had a handheld radio with me. I told them that I was in an Amateur Radio Emergency Services. His next question was obvious, “So what is that?” So I decided to do a little research to gather an official/proper definition.
does a pretty good job:
“ARES groups are volunteer amateur radio operators who come together for the common purpose of providing emergency and/or auxiliary communications service to public safety and public service organizations. Most individual ARES units are autonomous and operate locally. Although the Amateur Radio Emergency Service is a program (and trademark) of the American Radio Relay League (ARRL), the structure is more supportive than directive in nature, providing mostly for mutual aid in the event of large-scale emergencies.”
That does a very good explaination of what ARES is. People associate groups such as Skywarn (storm spotting) with ARES or just ham radio in general. But keep in mind, that is not ARES.
Until next time!
73’s
I’m back in the saddle again! Thank you Sauk Co. ARES.
I’ve completed my new IS100.a, IS200.a, IS700.a, and IS703. I’m waiting to hear back about my IS702. I should find out tomorrow morning.
I’m looking forward to the next ARES meeting. Going to review the SET, mmm…
Good news folks, I have a new truck that I’m decking out. A special thanks to N9HUM for a great deal on an Icom IC-207H dual band mobile radio. Photos will be available once the citizens band radio and MPC01 controller have been mounted. Sorry, I still don’t know if I’m going to mount a lightbar, I’m trying to keep the sex appeal of my ride by going with internal strobes.
So far the truck needs some new u-joints, brakes pads and rotars, and a serpentine belt. Other fixes that need to be done are repairs to the damaged rear hatch, rear windshield wiper, rear upper brake light. There are more maintenance type things to be done and I’m always looking for new or used equipment. If you have something to donate, please email me, or you can use the donate button below! Thanks!
I have most of the antennas mounted and nearly all of the equipment in the truck. I just mounted the high gain dual band antenna yesterday and it surely likes the Icom radio. The only problem is that the locking washers I have aren’t big enough for a So-239 connector so the grounding system for the antenna produces some static due to semi-poor contact.
Also featuring a new ham radio wiki: http://www.KC9LFD.org/wiki
this will feature a wealth of information by me, radio information, and equipment reviews. If you have a suggestion for content, please email me kc9lfd@kc9lfd.org. Thank you my loyal followers!
Courtesy of W5YI, my license has been renewed. I can look forward to another 10 years of RF radiation ?
PS. I’m still seeking donations for new strobes for my lightbar, or looking to trade it for internal strobes or LEDs.
The transmission in my truck failed and this time my truck is just gone for good. No respawning for this beast.
As we got a foot of snow in a 10 hour period, I welcomed my wife’s sister to Wisconsin. They moved here from California. Her sister and family love the snow here, but those of us who have lived here for a long time know that there is an evil associated with such beauty.
Today I would like to make a post about winter weather emergency readiness. Currently my truck has a lot of gear in it but not all of it that I want due to an unforeseen financial situation. Here are some things that you should keep in your vehicle to be prepared:
Snow Brush/Scraper – This is good for peering into vehicles that have been sitting and collecting snow for a while. Also good to make sure your own vehicle is ready to go. Nothing spells fun like your vehicle dumping 40kg of snow on the car behind you while you drive. Plus it hides your lights and antennas. Cost is $5-7.
Shovel – Sometimes you need to make a path to get to a car stuck in a ditch. Also good for helping to dig out a car (which I did yesterday, it paid for itself). If you want to get in front of a car to help push, I would suggest shoveling a path instead of jumping in the snow yourself and freezing your twig and giggleberries off. I purchased an inexpensive one that has more of a “cup” for scooping snow instead of just a flat shovel. Note, garden shovels SUCK in the snow, don’t waste your time. Cost $10.
Emergency Blankets – Small and cheap. These are like large pieces of tin foil. They reflect somewhere near 98% of body heat. These are essential in real emergency situations to help prevent hypothermia whether the victim is inside or outside of the vehicle. If outside the vehicle, it would be good to lay one on the ground/snow for the victim and lay another on top like a nice thermal sandwich. I found mine at Walmart in the sporting goods (camping) section. Cost $2 per blanket.
Flares – Flares or glow sticks are good for marking a scene or helping to alert other motorists of an issue. Though I don’t think these are absolutely necessary but I carry a few packs of glow sticks in my kit. Flares can be a little costly but they are bright and normally don’t mind getting a little wet. Their flame is water resistant, but don’t let the bodies soak in a puddle. Glow sticks are water resistant but are not as bright. Glow stick cost is about $1 per pack (Dollar Tree).
First Aid Kit – This one is rather self explanatory. There are a number of reasons for a crash or accident, some of them may be preexisting conditions. But either way, glass cuts flesh as well as hard pieces of ice. Cuts are going to be the most important thing to look out for. Next would be frostbite (which the emergency blankets will help with) and burns. Don’t forget about those poor people who get hit by the cars themselves by being in the wrong place at the wrong time or helping pull someone out of the ditch. Cost is $15+ for a pre made kit.
Jumper Cables – Batteries can freeze and even dry out. Older batteries or just cold batteries or batteries not properly maintained don’t work well in the cold. Sometimes all they need is a jump. This was the case for my wife’s car during an accident we came upon (look at the previous posts). The battery ended up having some bad cells and needed to be replaced, but a jump got us back home. Cost is $20+.
Tow Strap – If your truck is powerful enough to try to help someone out of the ditch, by all means. I will be making another post on the proper usage of tow straps (don’t get me started on what I saw yesterday, I was about to open a can of whoop-ass on the husband of the person who I helped dig out of the ditch yesterday). Make sure that the road is clear of traffic and you have your caution lights on. But most important, make sure the road is clear enough where you can get traction. Sparing you a physics lesson, you not only have your vehicle to pull, but the other vehicle PLUS the resistance of the snow. Get the strongest tow strap/cable you can, a little extra doesn’t hurt. Make sure you pay attention to the breaking strength considering what I just said. Cost is $20+. Here is an example of cost and breaking strength at . Even if your vehicle doesn’t have the proper hookups or power to use tow straps, there are other uses. Maybe someone else who stops has a vehicle that can use them, at least you’re prepared. Also, if someone is stuck in water, it can be used as a somewhat short rescue line.
Extra Clothes – Snow melts and is nothing more than water. There is your kindergarten lesson for the day. Water is an excellent thermal conductor and likes to be cold. If you have wet clothes in cold weather, your body heat will evacuate at an exponential rate. Carrying an extra set of warm sweat pants, sweat shirt, beanies, mittens or gloves is always a good idea. If you have kids or if someone you help is wet and cold. Even if they are in a heated vehicle, wet clothes are no fun. Cost? Cheap. Visit Goodwill, Savers, Dig’n’Save, or St. Vincent de Paul for clothes so cheap you’ll freak.
Fire Extinguisher – Yes, snow can put out a fire, but this is by far more efficient. If it’s a minor fire or away from a person then snow may be viable. This is good if you need immediate results to help someone on fire or to get to gain access to a door or window to get somebody out of a burning car. Cost is $20 (for a small one) and up.
Caution Lights – Everybody loves flashing lights but when used properly, they are essential. Flashing lights catch people’s eyes which is important if you are stopped on the side of the road helping somebody out. I’m personally allergic to being hit by cars (too many times as a kid). If you are a civilian, amber is the way to go. There are cheap lights but some of them don’t work nearly as well. Those single dome lights that blink up and down are inadequate. I would go for a single or dual rotary light from an auto parts store or a LED mini light bar. All of the above can be magnetic mounted so you don’t have to drill holes or permanently mounted if you want. They can be as easy as plugging into a cigarette lighter of a car or permanently wired to your battery if you wish. The key is not to have too few lights or you will not be seen or too many lights or you can distract people and cause more accidents. I have a malfunctioning light bar on the top of my truck, a strobe light on the back of my truck, and two LED packs on the front grill of my truck. Cost can be as low as $40 for a decent light but expect to pay over that.
Car Fluids – Sometimes people forget to add antifreeze to their car’s coolant (even in the summer, works better than water alone, but winter should have a stronger antifreeze to water ratio). Cars break down, that’s a fact. Sometimes its due to wear and tear, old age, or an accident. It’s a good idea to carry some extra water, antifreeze, power steering fluid, transmission fluid, 5W-30 & 10W-30 oil, and brake fluid. I normally carry most of these just in case my own truck breaks down. I also carry a small gas can with me because sometimes people have brainfarts and forget that their car runs on gas. Cost for a small gas can is about $10.
Water – Your body runs on the stuff. People traumatized in an accident or have been stranded can be dehydrated which will add to the traumatic effect of the situation. Keep some on hand. Be careful though, water does freeze in a car and can explode or leak and cause water damage. Cost for water is about $6 for a case of 24 bottles.
Tools – Essential tools for minor repairs would be work gloves, screwdrivers, pliers, needle nose pliers, a wrench set and possibly an adjustable wrench, multi-meter/voltage meter, hammer, ratchet set and bolt cutter. You can carry more if you like depending on your skill set. The hammer is especially useful if you have to break a car window to rescue somebody. The bolt cutter is not essential, but if they crash into a wire fence or if their snow tires (chains) malfunction, it can be rather useful. Don’t buy the super cheap tool sets, they will fail. Trust me on this one. Go to a hardware store and ask the high school kid at the counter what kind of essential tools you should carry. Buy them separately and get a box or cheapo toolbox to put them in. My case cost me $3 at Savers and my tools all together cost me $50+ for my basics, but I carry much more than the basics.
Salt/Sand – Which can aid in helping a vehicle out of the ditch. It can add traction and help melt ice that reduces traction (this is also useful for getting traction on a slippery road if you intend to pull someone out using a tow strap). The blue stuff is more expensive but works really freaking fast. Cost is about $6 per bag and this can double as added weight on the rear end to give you more traction. If you’re in a pinch or can get a good deal at a pet store, kitty litter will work in a pinch to give you a little extra traction.
Carpet/Traction Aids – Yes, like what you have in your living room. A reasonable sized piece of carpet or floor mat can also work to give you extra traction. Just place a piece under each wheel of the drive system (front tires for front wheel drive, rear for rear wheel drive, etc). It doesn’t need to be a full roll, just big enough to fit under your tire to give you some momentum. If you have a traction aid kit (like seen on TV), you can lay those down. Cost is free if you have a scissors and a friend in the other room. Just kidding. You can buy a couple of chunks for under $20 at a carpet supply store.
Vest – Nothing would suck more than being hit by a car while you are trying to help someone out. A reflective vest can be picked up for $10-20 just about any sporting supply store. I wear a yellow jacket and have a reflective vest (courtesy of Sauk Co. ARES/RACES).
This is by no means a comprehensive rescue how to. This is also not a substitution for common sense. If you don’t have training, experience, or common sense, don’t try a rescue because you may become another victum that needs to be rescued. How embarassing would that be? But I’m not trying to turn you away either. DO WHAT YOU CAN! Even if it means pulling over, turning your lights on so other people steer clear of the accident, calling for help via mobile phone, ham radio, cb, or smoke signals and checking to see if the people are alright and offering water, clothes, or a warm vehicle. Police dispatch would like you to be short and sweet and have all the details because they are busy this season.
A sample call should be like “Car in ditch westbound I-94 mile marker 1-1-6, no injuries. White 4-door car, toyota camery, L-P Xray-Xray-Xray-five-five-five. Tow requested.” Be sure to use phoenetics when possible and LP is of course the license plate. Substitute my example for the real deal. Be sure to mention if there is injuries just after the location so the dispatcher can prioritize it accordingly. If there is an injury, be sure to be clear and precise. It is also a good idea to mention your vehicle if it’s easier to spot than the vehicle that needs assistance.
This are some of the things you can do to be a good amateur radio operator helping people out. But this isn’t just for hams, this is for any civillian or professional. After all, our job is to help each other out in a time of need. I know I would want someone to stop for my wife and kids if that were the case.

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