Gabriela Hearst: From Cattle to Catwalk | British Vogue
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Gabriela herding sheep at her ranch in Uruguay
Gabriela Hearst
It is the season for fluffy little lambs gambolling over sprouting greenery – although not in Uruguay, where autumn leaves are starting to fall.
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But for Gabriela Hearst, any visit to her country of birth and its gaucho culture is a reminder of her day job back in the USA. Inspired by her childhood on the family-owned sheep ranch, she has built a fashion business in New York based on what was once – before technical fabric sportswear and puffer jackets – the prime way to keep warm.
Knitted cashmere sweaters by Gabriela Hearst
Gabriela Hearst
“For six generations, my family has been raising sheep and cattle, and they were one of the first families to bring Merino to Uruguay, so there was a profound reasoning for me to go into the wool market,” says Gabriela, who won the International Woolmark Prize in Paris earlier this year and was chosen last month as one of the five nominees for the Swarovski Emerging Talent award of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America).
Gabriela Hearst's winning looks from her collection for the International Woolmark Prize
Gabriela Hearst
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Finding the balance between running a business in New York with the support of her husband Austin Hearst, and looking after the Uruguay ranch after the death of her father, might seem an impossible task. Add a first live show, presenting wool as fashion, and Gabriela’s responsibilities seem formidable. But she takes it all in her rangy stride.Sporty but classy shoes are on her agenda. So are handbags – small and squishy, opening like a clamshell – which have a cult following and a long waiting list. (One of the first 25 customers to buy the "Nina", named after Nina Simone, was a man who spotted Gabriela in an elevator in London and bought the bag as a gift for his wife. He turned out to be Apple’s Jony Ive.)
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The story of Gabriela, now 40 and the mother of three children, is woven into her life like the wool threads of her cardigans, coats and sweaters.“I don’t even remember when I lea when I was a kid, I would be there herding cattle with my family – it was one of the things you do,” Gabriela says, describing her childhood dreams of dressing like a princess and the reality of an isolated ranch with no television, only basic radio, and constant cattle herding broken only occasionally by a brief trip to Chile.
A young Gabriela learning to ride with her parents at their ranch in Uruguay
Gabriela Hearst
Maybe it was that remote childhood and the gentle pace, so untypical of fast moving, crazy-busy New York, that appear in the clothes she sells through stores such as Bergdorf in New York, Bon Marché in Paris, Boon The Shop in Seoul, and Selfridges in London. The brand is also on-line at Matches and Net-a-Porter. The designer works with Italian fabric company Loro Piana, now owned by LVMH. That collaboration produced a limited edition Autumn/Winter 2017 collection using fabrics in blush pink or cream wool for tailored coats.“We thought there would be more of a learning process before we hit a niche, but Gabby hit it right out of the box – and this has led us to very controlled growth,” says Austin Hearst, the publishing guru who is the grandson of American tycoon William Randolph Hearst.
Gabriela Hearst at The Refectory at the Highline Hotel discussing logistics with her team (including producer Alex de Betak, on her right, and her husband Austin, on her left) before her Autumn/Winter 2017 debut runway show
Gabriela Hearst
“We could go a lot faster,” Austin continues, “but we’ve made the decision that we can’t grow and maintain the same quality – so that is very much the build strategy. We also feel that we’ve had to educate our customers. Gabby has the desire to present very good, high quality fabrics. And she has a little saying that she wishes people would buy less. I’m not completely subscribing to that, but what she means is that people should buy less but be willing to pay for the higher quality.”
With the concept of fine clothes that last, Gabriela has hit a nerve – one that is counter-intuitive to her first foray into fashion with Candela. That line of casual, Bohemian wear is still on offer. But after moving from Uruguay to Australia, then having a brief period as a model and landing up in the US in 2000, the designer has returned, metaphorically and literally, to her roots.“By the time I was older, I had a passion for well-made materials. I had inherited my father’s ranch after he passed away, so I had been managing something that was about quality and standards,” Gabriela explains. “It is not something that is ostentatious, but about true wealth in the sense that the yarns and the clothes are well made – and they last.
Double-breasted wool coats from Gabriela Hearst's Autumn/Winter 2017 collection
Gabriela Hearst
“We examined the market and I felt that there was a space that spoke to women and was not so focused on fashion and trends,” she says. “I like the idea of wardrobe building, when you don’t know which season it is or which year you designed it. I am trying to achieve timeless design in a way that is modern and not boring because it has a thought process running through it.”That might sound like a fancy way to describe a rustic sweater or cardigan with cable stitching that turns out to be hand-made by a not-for-profit organisation in U or very simple sweaters in vivid colours with peppered patterning. But the Woolmark Award comes from her incomparable knowledge of the natural material she works with.
Gabriela Hearst's winning looks for the International Woolmark Prize collection
Gabriela Hearst
“It is the timeless appeal of Gabriela Hearst’s offering, combined with her technical innovation and a clear vision of the future of her brand, that saw her stand out,” says Stuart McCullough, the Woolmark Company CEO, explaining her win as use of
“ultra-fine 14.5 micron Merino wool for luxurious knitwear and 21.5 micron for a wool-velvet effect”.“Hearst’s precision and clean cuts offer a collection set to stand the test of time,” the executive concludes.
Gabriela Hearst's Woolmark collection on display in Paris in January 2017, when she was announced the winner of the 2016-17 International Woolmark Prize
Gabriela Hearst
Showing the clothes on the runway for the first time in the chapel-like Refectory of the High Line Hotel was bold, but not entirely successful. For, as always with designers whose work depends on subtlety of fabric and sensory touch, the clothes modelled on a traditional runway – however lovely the setting – told only part of Gabriela’s story. The essence of what the designer calls a “strong and sensual look” did come through in velvet and in the rustic knitted cushions on each chair, however.
For Gabriela Hearst's debut fashion show, she brought chairs from her own home and designed cushions out of leftover cashmere and merino wool that were made by the women's co-operative, Manos del Uruguay
Gabriela Hearst
Gabriela wanted the whole collection to be luxuri to be what she calls “resourceful luxury”. Seven sets of clothes in the collection were made with existing high-end fabrics and materials and the pillows were made by a women’s co-op in Uruguay from the leftover cashmere and merino wool from the Autumn/Winter 2017 collection.
There was an overarching sense, in a New York season dedicated to the See Now, Buy Now fast-fashion ethic, that the Gabriela Hearst initiative offers something different.
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The designer put it like this: “I thought for a long time, ‘Does the world need another fashion brand?’ The number one question was ‘Why?’ Why would I do that? Obviously, I love what I do, but was there a need for it?”
“I felt there was a need for something made with true ethics and values,” Gabriela continues. “It’s a daily exercise, thinking how we can be less wasteful for the environment. For me, it’s a passion, like hunting and gathering – but for beautiful cloth.”
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Gabriela Hearst at her ranch in Uruguay
Gabriela Hearst
Gabriela Hearst's father on his ranch in Uruguay
Gabriela Hearst
The mood board for Gabriela Hearst's Autumn/Winter 2017 collection
Natasha Cowan
Gabriela Hearst's Spring/Summer 2017 collection
Gabriela Hearst
Gabriela Hearst's Spring/Summer 2017 collection
Gabriela Hearst
Key looks from Gabriela Hearst's Autumn/Winter 2017 debut show
Gabriela Hearst
Left, a Gabriela Hearst Autumn/Winter 2017
right, Gabriella fitting the dress on a model in her New York studio
Gabriela Hearst, Natasha Cowan, right
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Gabriela Hearst
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友情链接：营销起来这么有个性的牌子你知道咩？Gabriela&Hearst
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​Nina bag来自Gabriela Hearst同名设计品牌的第一款包包。
Gabriela Hearst是谁？
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就很久很久以前，设计师们纷纷前往巴黎和米兰，为那些富有的大客户们装扮、设计服饰，满足他们对于时尚的期待。然而现在，更多的名流财主们开始亲自设计自己的服饰。Gabriela
Hearst就是其中之一，她曾是模特，来自乌拉圭的最古老的牧场家族之一，在他父亲去世之后继承家族的农场。后来嫁给了美国前首富William
Randolph Hearst的孙子，搬到了曼哈顿并开始了设计生涯。
<img src="/blog7style/images/common/sg_trans.gif" real_src ="/large/006rJAf0gw1f73n6mvphjj31hc280k56.jpg"
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​那些熟悉Hearst的人们说道：因为Hearst曾经的经历，他们一点都不意外Hearst现在会投身于时尚圈。
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“在我参加20周年校庆的时候，每个人都说你曾经是那个上课时总在教室后面画设计稿的女孩”她回忆着说道“以前每个人的礼服裙都是我设计的。第一次看《灰姑娘》的时候我六岁，当演到小老鼠和小鸟帮助辛德瑞拉做裙子的时候，我一下子愣住了，是啊！可以做衣服啊，然后我从祖母的衣柜里翻出了一条蕾丝礼服然后把它改成了一条裙子。”
Gabriela的祖母并没有愤怒，更多的反而是被她的创造力感到惊喜。之后，她在创新这条路上发展得更远，例如为男朋友手绘皮衣，在上面画上了ROBERT
SMITH（The
cure乐队的创建人）的脸。“时尚设计师”这个职业并没有在我的人生计划中出现过。我学的是传媒，我从未想过时装设计会成为我的未来的职业。
在她21岁的时候，Hearst选择暂停她的学业，去往了欧洲成为了一个模特，这也为她之后前往纽约做了铺垫，她在纽约的一家展示厅内做销售指导的工作。“我觉得我能胜任设计这份工作”她这么想到，因为在一段时间前，她和两个合作伙伴一起接手了“Candela”这个成立于Brooklyn的现代T恤品牌，然后在十年后，经过Hearst的努力，这个品牌增大了收益并增加了更多的系列。
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她说“我觉得我想和这些美丽的纱线一起工作。我是一个牧场人，我们依靠自己的牧场生产那些高端的产品，从草料喂养的有机肉到美利奴羊毛，我希望能把牧场的高品质融入到产品中。所以这就意味着在品牌中使用最好的皮质，最好的纱线还有最好的布料。”
“同时，当你成立一个以自己名字来命名的品牌时，你不能只存在与幕后。品牌的品质和良心也能映射出创始人的特性。服饰反映出你的信仰，所以我需要提高对于品牌的要求。”
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Hearst的同名品牌在2015年秋天出的第一季产品。GabrielaHearst为了延续家族的文化及生活方式：精致、慢节奏以及悠久的文化及历史沉淀，用以设计的方式让大家感受到。
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Gabriela Hearst
回忆道：“大约在11月的某一天，我在Claridge's（位于伦敦的五星级酒店）的电梯里看到有位男士一直在盯着我的包，他很好奇这只包是从何而来，所以我答道这是我自己制作的一个样包。然后他告诉我如果我能生产它们，他愿意购买。说着递给我他的名片，竟是Jony
Ive！（乔纳森·保罗·埃维爵士，苹果公司的首席设计官。）”
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后来开始尝试制作，我手上包包。开始的时候我只是限量生产了25只的Nina包，但我做这些并不是为了商业，我只是想把它们制作出来，并送给我的朋友和身边的人而已。比如为我做鞋子的女士有一只Nina包，当然Ive我给了一只。演员Brie
Larson也有一只，她背着这款包穿着Celine的外套参加了金球奖的party。俄罗斯时尚博主Miroslava
Duma曾背着这款包去纽约时装周，并成为各大摄影师追拍的焦点，这就是当It girl遇到It bag。
Gabriela Hearst女士可谓是从包包设计到营销方式都是相当有个性。后来可定制的只有100人在Gabriela
Hearst的名单上，并不对外售卖。如此金贵又难得到的限量款Nina包，在其官网上游走半天，抱着试试看的态度，点击官网上唯一的按钮就会蹦出一个“候补名单（waitlist）邮件”，接下来填写你的信息然后静静等待回复吧。想要挤进waitlist上的前100可不是那么简单。不论你是谁，都只能给官方发邮件。“You
have to email. If you really want the bag, you have to email.”
Gabriela就是这么霸气。
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​但是很不幸被小编在一个拍卖网站上看到了，不知道是被Gabriela
Hearst的哪一位朋友，或者大客户放到的网上，不过大家一定好奇它的价格，是的截至到现在已经被拍到了4662英镑（相当于39861人民币）（不说了，我得喝口水镇定下）但如果你是土豪的话，不如去和其他土豪们竞争一下：
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ALT="营销起来这么有个性的牌子你知道咩？Gabriela&Hearst"
TITLE="营销起来这么有个性的牌子你知道咩？Gabriela&Hearst" />
不要太感谢我，你知道的我是爱你们的。接下来我们来欣赏下NinaBags的风采吧，看看究竟是为何这么多人为之着迷。
<img src="/blog7style/images/common/sg_trans.gif" real_src ="/large/006rJAf0gw1f73nd116o4j30hs0hsjsl.jpg"
ALT="营销起来这么有个性的牌子你知道咩？Gabriela&Hearst"
TITLE="营销起来这么有个性的牌子你知道咩？Gabriela&Hearst" />
小牛皮材质搭配玫瑰金色五金，内袋包含两个卡位，用料上还采用鳄鱼皮。简约而不简单的设计可以用“仙气十足帅气有余”来形容。一共分为两个尺寸，大号的包以美国歌手妮娜·西蒙的名字命名为Nina
Bag，而小号则被称为Demi Bag。
<img src="/blog7style/images/common/sg_trans.gif" real_src ="/large/006rJAf0gw1f73ndls7bej30pu0tyae3.jpg"
ALT="营销起来这么有个性的牌子你知道咩？Gabriela&Hearst"
TITLE="营销起来这么有个性的牌子你知道咩？Gabriela&Hearst" />
虽说还只是个小众品牌，但火热程度持续爆表，从俄罗斯名媛到小个子时尚博主Duma，她们走到哪都提着这款造型独特的小包，得到了所有人的关注。
<img src="/blog7style/images/common/sg_trans.gif" real_src ="/large/006rJAf0gw1f73ne3roz7j30kg0uodi6.jpg"
ALT="营销起来这么有个性的牌子你知道咩？Gabriela&Hearst"
TITLE="营销起来这么有个性的牌子你知道咩？Gabriela&Hearst" />
相信每个姑娘都想拥有一只IT BAG，无奈NINA
BAG不好买，快快去发邮件吧~小编问过了，大概十月就会有上新，价格在1995美刀
运费。排队等待期间不如来“少铺”APP逛逛，各种全新二手大牌待你发掘，你的IT BAG就在这里等着你 ❤❤❤
<img src="/blog7style/images/common/sg_trans.gif" real_src ="/large/006rJAf0gw1f73o1ls89hj31kw0q6796.jpg"
ALT="营销起来这么有个性的牌子你知道咩？Gabriela&Hearst"
TITLE="营销起来这么有个性的牌子你知道咩？Gabriela&Hearst" />
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